MY INCREDULOUS colleague asked one Friday afternoon, "You mean to tell me you've never been to Fowey in all the time you lived in the West Country?"

I held my head in shame.

"Well," he smiled, "you're in for a treat." And he wasn't wrong. The long and winding road that leads down into this Cornish fishing village hides the true magnificence of the river scene that greets you.

Here and there, there's a flash of blue or the glimpse of a bobbing boat, with the properties along the river jealously guarding their view. It's not until we reach our destination that we finally get the chance to let out a slow gasp and just say "wow!"

By now we are on the top floor of the quaintly named Old Quay House Hotel – as close as you can get to the water without getting wet. This is the Penthouse Suite with its own balcony and amazing views (I am struggling with adjectives here, because the scenery is to be seen to be believed.)

One of 11 bedrooms in this beautifully restored former B&B, the suite is flooded with light as you stare at the ever-changing vista.

Fowey is described as "the jewel in the crown of Cornwall's resurgent South Coast". It can date its rich maritime history back as far as Henry IV. Step on to the balcony, and whichever way you look is the river, teeming with life whether it be boats, people, birds or wildlife.

I have stayed in some wonderful beachfront properties and hotels and I suddenly realise that a river has much more to offer by way of entertainment.

There have been times when I have fallen asleep lulled by the gentle, repetitive wash of the waves on the shore. But a river...

The water here is an endless source of fascination and hours could be spent watching Nature at work and play.

A little ferry moves back and forth across the Fowey delivering cars and people. Sailing boats are moored in the water, gently bobbing on the tide and later, in the early morning sun, a gig boat moves swiftly along, the sound of encouragement from the cox echoing in the distance.

You don't appreciate how absorbing it is, just watching people messing about on the river. I begin to think that this river lark has a lot of therapeutic value.

But if rivers aren't your thing, the Old Quay House still has plenty of therapy and relaxation to offer.

Owner Jane Carson's attention to detail and clever eye for combining old and new, works well.

Traditional architecture sits comfortably with 21st century elegance and comfort. In the Penthouse Suite everything has been thought of from the fridge, coffee and tea-making facilities to the up-to-the-minute sound systems and television.

Power showers are the norm here, but in the bedroom area – with the bed on a wooden platform – is a freestanding claw foot bath. At night, the muted lighting allows you to soak in luxury and watch the night sky though a window in the gables.

Having got relaxing down to a fine art, it's time to turn my attention from feeding the soul to feeding the stomach.

Head Chef Ben Bass is a man who knows his onions... and fish, and meat and vegetables. He's worked hard to build up strong relationships with local producers and – if you can tear your gaze away from the ever-present river view – there's an impressive view on the plate.

Crab ravioli, whole red gurnard, Fowey river oysters and pan fried Cornish scallops all vie for centre stage on the tantalising, locally inspired menu.

I opted for a starter of grilled Cornish Sardines served with Gremolata, Onion Chutney and Pine Nut Salad. It's a recipe Ben tried out for the WMN In Season pages last month and he was so pleased with the results that it found its way on to the menu.

While I tuck into Mr Bass's Sea Bass, my husband enjoys a rib-eye steak. Then we both defy tradition and find something on the dessert menu to appeal.

The flavours here are fresh, light and delicious. The restaurant – which has a kind of Old Colonial feel to it with the woven chairs and lots of wood – is called Q, inspired by the nickname for local author Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch.

And that's a clue to the other side to Fowey – it's literary links.

Daphne du Maurier made her home at Ferryside on the other side of the water at Bodinnick – you can see her house clearly from the hotel. One of the highlights of the literary year is the Daphne du Maurier Festival which has quickly grown into one of the best events of its kind.

Du Maurier is never far away, but you quickly appreciate why she regarded this place as so special. One of the iconic pictures of the author of Rebecca, Jamaica Inn, Frenchman's Creek and My Cousin Rachel, is of her rowing on the river.

Many of the places around Fowey are to be found in her books. You could while away the hours pottering around the streets of Fowey.

It is one of those fortunate places which manages to maintain the look and feel of a traditional Cornish fishing port, while offering the visitor plenty to see and do... and buy!

The shops are delightful and there really is the butcher, the baker and the candle maker as well as art galleries and gift shops. Service is friendly and informal and there is plenty to enjoy and appreciate even if you're only window shopping.

With narrow streets and parking kept mainly on the perimeter of the town or the park and ride, the atmosphere is quiet, relaxed and fume free.

I loved the little cafe with its twinkling lights and warm interior. Outside on a chalk board advertising all sorts of delights was the message: "We've gone home... because it's where we live."

It's the kind of thing that makes you eager to return during opening time. What do you mean, you've never been to Fowey?

TRAVEL FACTS:

THE Old Quay House, Fowey, has 2 AA Gold Stars and 2AA Rosettes. Rooms start at £140 per night (double room, single occupancy) to £300 per night for the Penthouse Suite. Dinner is £35 per person. Visit the website for current offers and special packages.

The Old Quay House is taking part in The Herald Great Getaway promotion and offers two nights B&B for the price of one when dinner is taken on the first night. The B&B price per room is from £135, Dinner from £23. The offer is valid Sunday to Thursday. Collect three tokens which are published daily until Friday April 3. The offer is valid until April 30 2009.

The Old Quay House Hotel is at 28 Fore Street, Fowey PL23 1AQ. Visit www.theoldquayhouse.com or call 01726 833302.