Play devil's advocate for 'devil's vegetable'

AFTER a spell in the nation's limelight this week, one unpopular little green cabbage is biting back.

The Brussels Sprout was branded 'the devil's vegetable' and banned from a battleship by a Royal Navy Captain, but a TV celebrity chef has offered some top tips that might give our national treasure the green light.

Wayne Keble OBE, who commands Devonport-based warship HMS Bulwark, caused a right stink by telling The Herald he'd banned sprouts from his vessel, as he 'hates' the healthy veggie. The MOD denied he'd ever said this and stated categorically that they were only banned from the captain's plate, causing a furore in the media.

But Herald defence reporter Tristan Nichols proved them wrong with his neat shorthand note as well as a record of the conversation on tape recorder, ironically taken by the Navy News.

Now Plymouth's Chris Tanner has offered readers some simple ways to improve the sprout.

These tips might make up for years of abuse they've received at the hands of school chefs across the country, who at one time were renowned for serving them over boiled.

"Like Marmite, I think you either love them or hate them," he said.

"I just remember at school they cooked them to death. I think most people would say the same.

"But they can be beautiful, when served alongside something else. We sell tonnes of them at Christmas, served with chestnuts, pancetta or bacon, cooked in a little duck fat, a bit of garlic and perhaps some fresh rosemary or thyme," added Mr Tanner, who owns and cooks at The Barbican Kitchen and Tanners restaurant.

"They are a good accompaniment to root vegetables, such as carrots and swedes; they add a different texture to the plate," he added.

He pointed out that they are one of the nation's traditional roast accompaniments and absolutely full of vitamins.

Packed with Vitamin C, Vitamin D and folic acid, just six sprouts, lightly cooked, contain an adult's daily allowance.

Chris's team tends to serve them quartered but he said they can be cooked in other ways, too.

"Sometimes we use them raw to garnish fish. We take off the bitter outer leaves until you get to the sweeter core, a bit like the inside of a Cos lettuce. We then put a couple of these uncooked leaves with dishes such as mackerel," he said.

"I've also experimented in the last couple of years by pickling them raw in a solution and serving them, again with mackerel, as a small starter. Raw, it's a bit like white cabbage," he added.

The Brussels sprout, cultivated in the 16th century in Belgium from cabbages, is renowned for its strong flavour and smell. This is caused by sulphur compounds, released when cooked.

"I think many people are put off by the strong flavour but they are so good for you and packed with vitamins. We cook them in a water bath – a vacuum pack bag – so none of the nutrients are lost.

"To counteract the strength of the sprout we grate lemon zest onto them when cooked.

"They are also good in bubble and squeak. When I worked in New York they served a waffle made of grated vegetable leaves. Sprouts would work well in that way," he added.

Chris Tanner's perfect sprouts:

Boil in salted water for 10 to 12 minutes, although he adds that it depends on how you like them.

He said: "We always cook them slightly underdone so they've got a bite."

Next step: Roast them in a pan with garlic, rosemary, thyme, olive oil or duck fat. Sprinkle a little Cornish sea salt on top and finish by garnishing with grated lemon zest.