So, this is where the sun went

Trusted article source icon
Friday, September 11, 2009
Profile image for This is Cornwall

This is Cornwall

THE sun and blue skies of Rhodes seem so distant now as I sit in my office watching my garden vanish below the rising waters, having just flicked the lights on at four o'clock in the afternoon because we had no sunrise today.

It was in early August that the family took its holiday to this stunning Greek island where temperatures hover around 28C, or 82 degrees Fahrenheit, during the day. At night, temperatures fall a little, but only a little, and you can sit and enjoy a cool sea breeze and a cocktail far from the black clouds of home.

We stayed at the Lindos Royal Village Hotel overlooking the Aegean, with the sea literary a stone's throw from the grounds. If you get bored with the pool, a small private bay offers the chance to take a dip in a lukewarm sea.

The hotel boasts that it is noted for being a family-orientated establishment with something for everyone, ensuring no one misses out during their holidays in Greece. I must admit, that claim is well justified, with a very relaxed atmosphere as soon as you walk into the complex. Entertainment comes in the shape of the 'animation team', a multi-national group of very enthusiastic youngsters who always seem to be on duty around the pool but aren't 'in your face'. In the evenings, the same team are on stage getting everyone from six to 60 up and dancing. Even I took to the floor, and here I would like to apologise to anyone who might have been involved in that disaster.

The island of Rhodes itself is still unspoiled, with tiny villages having kept their authentic colours and cluttered design despite the high level of tourism. Lindos itself clings to a hillside and is famous for its donkey rides up to an acropolis that overlooks the entire town and an azure sea. I managed to avoid this – donkeys and I don't really get on – but did speak to the operator, a heavily whiskered, chain- smoking local character who turned out to have lived in Exeter for 25 years. The same afternoon I got talking to the boat hire operator, who was born in Bath and had relations in Tiverton and Yealmpton. Rhodes is a real get-away from it all.

Perhaps the biggest asset of Rhodes is its capital, the city of Rhodes. It's of splendid medieval construction, the largest inhabited medieval town in Europe, and its fortifications are considered as among the finest example of medieval architecture, backed by World Heritage protection. The Colossus has gone, if it ever was, but the atmosphere of countless generations of Greeks and Italians and British and... whoever else invaded is still there. A day-trip away from the pool is definitely recommended. You'll find bustling streets with traders selling the usual holiday tat and trinkets and some really excellent shops with high-quality silver and gold: but no pressure. If you want to buy, buy; if you don't, then the typical Greek attitude kicks in and there's a smile and a wave and you wander off unmolested.

To get a better overall picture of life on the island and find out about our hotel, I managed to talk to the Iberostar Lindos Royal manager Michalis Giasiranis.

"I'm Rhodes born and bred," he told me in perfect English. "It's an island that is totally dependent on tourism so the world recession has affected us, but not as badly as some. Greece in general doesn't have heavy industry or major manufacturing so, you, the tourist, is vital. We've dropped prices but not standards and as you've found out, the hotel is full, all 278 rooms.

"We assume that the tourist industry will be down about four to five per cent – that's what the Greek press is reporting – so not a major disaster.

"Hopefully those are realistic figures."

The fact the hotel was at capacity might back those optimistic figures; there was still room at the pool side for everyone. There were no queues at breakfast, lunch or dinner and there was plenty of food: too much, in fact. The choice ranged from 'Euro fodder' to local flavour, ie. burgers and pizza to Greek-style artichoke hearts and pumpkin stuffed with lamb. Some tried a little of everything and others didn't. I did hear one father telling his son: "You're not having spaghetti bolognese for seven days." Why not? I was tempted. And there was no recycling as far as I could see. In Spain a few years ago, Monday's Spanish chicken was Tuesday's chicken kebabs was Wednesday's chicken curry was Thursday's Chicken Surprise. The real surprise was that there was no more chicken on Friday.

We'd booked a half-board holiday but decided to upgrade to all-inclusive at a charge of 20 euros per person per day. Believe me, that was a saving. With the state of the pound/euro conversion, you'll regret not coming to some sort of deal with the younger members of the family over the constant flow of Cokes and ice cream. Outside of the hotel a Coke was about £2.20 a small bottle and a local beer about £3 a bottle, with imported labels even more; the older children might want to take the all-inclusive option as well.

If, at the end of your holiday, you feel that this is the life for you, just take a small wander around the property shops. A two- bedroom box with a sea view will hit you for 290,000 euros. It'll be quiet and secluded, as you're likely to be the only buyer in a block of 20 or so developments.

Manager Michalis Giasiranis explained. "The sale of holiday homes has all but stopped and the prices aren't being dropped. The attitude is 'Buy it or leave it'; we're not selling cheap."

The alternative is to return to the island via its hotels. Iberostar offers a perfect break with great food, great entertainment and unlimited sun. Two weeks back in Britain and I've got the snuffles, a flooded garden and only a distant memory of 82 degrees. Hopefully I'll find myself back on Rhodes in the near future... if only to spend the euro coins which I've brought back, adding to the pile that I already have. In a bored moment I worked it out at £78-worth. Remember that one euro is very nearly a quid.

0
Tweet this article
Report

Your comments awaiting moderation

Be the first to comment

max 4000 characters